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Who Wants to Be Mr. Rachael Ray?

Married to a Food Network superstar, John Cusimano is at the helm of an empire. PLUS: Discuss living under the shadow of a leading woman in our comment section below.

-By David Amsden
-Photograph by Norman Watson

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In most respects, John Cusimano's life is perfectly normal. He is a dude from Long Island, 40 years old, with a law degree. He has shaggy, semi-feathered brown hair and a permanently benign expression—"he's the opposite of someone who stands out in a crowd. He spent his high-school days collecting classic-rock records, fiddling with guitars, dreaming of rock stardom, and playing in a little garage band. "We called ourselves the Cringe," he says, "because the music kind of made you cringe." They were terrible, yes, but after Cusimano got older and moved to Manhattan, and even later as he started working at various law firms and got engaged, he never stopped believing that maybe, just maybe, the day would come when he could take the Cringe to the next level. There's nothing odd about this. There are plenty of grown men in the world who cling to adolescent dreams, no matter how ridiculous or unattainable they may be.

All of that brings us here, to a nightclub in lower Manhattan called the Annex, where the peculiarities of Cusimano's life begin to reveal themselves. "Hey, everyone, we're the Cringe!" he announces, standing in the middle of a small stage, staring out at a crowd that seems to consist entirely of (a) friends and family of John Cusimano and (b) friends and family of the group that played 10 minutes ago. The Cringe could be any struggling band in any dingy bar in New York, except for the fact that standing a few feet from the stage is the band's most die-hard supporter, Cusimano's wife, who happens to be one of the most famous women in America. That would be Rachael Ray, the peppy, raspy-voiced, 39-year-old Food Network star, a fiery comet of middlebrow ambition who spun a simple idea—30-minute meals! —into a lifestyle empire. She has a magazine (Every Day With Rachael Ray), numerous best-selling cookbooks (Rachael Ray 365: No Repeats—A Year of Deliciously Different Meals, for one), a line of cookware, lucrative endorsement deals (with Dunkin' Donuts and, at one time, Burger King and RJR Nabisco), a syndicated talk show (Rachael Ray), and two vehicles on the Food Network (30 Minute Meals and $40 a Day). Being married to such a woman—and having a day job as unofficial manager of her enterprises—has obvious benefits. What other guy could hire Saturday Night Live's drummer and a former guitarist for the French electro-pop group Air to play in a bar band that makes no money?

But such perks come with a price. Since the fall of 2006, the Ray-Cusimano union has had a number of cameos in the tabloids, beginning with reports of Cusimano's unorthodox infidelities—a woman named Jeannine Waltz claimed he paid her to spit on him and rub her feet in his face—which were followed by anonymous murmurings of marital strife and, finally, talk of an ugly divorce involving an obscene payout for Cusimano (National Enquirer: rachael ray $500 million divorce). The couple have repeatedly denied the rumors— "John and I are happily, grotesquely, blissfully married!" Ray declared on her talk show last November—but the peculiar nature of the allegations left a residue. Cusimano found himself cast as an alpha woman's beta boy, a shady kept man, a submissive gold digger. "My initial reaction was shock," he says. "But I guess it's an occupational hazard, you know? The more I get used to my position, I just kind of roll my eyes and say, Whatever.' If this is the worst thing I need to contend with, I'll be okay." A short pause. "We'll be okay."

Regardless of whether there was truth behind any of the talk, the gossip was seen by many as irresistible proof that beneath Ray's perky exterior there pulses a twisted heart of darkness. But if tonight's show at the Annex is any indicator, the rumors of trouble in paradise are groundless—Cusimano wields his own unique power over his wife. As he performs what he describes as "rock and roll with a punk edge"—strutting around onstage and executing an endearingly earnest dive into the drum set—Ray appears enchanted. She shakes her hips, yelps, buys drinks for friends, blows her husband kisses (she has her cell phone set to play "My Hero" by the Foo Fighters whenever Cusimano calls). At one point Cusimano prefaces a song with a little story of connubial bliss: "So the other day I was sitting on the couch watching TV with my wife—I think you all know who she is (hi, honey!)—and anyway, we were sitting there and this song came on and she said, God, that's beautiful, who is that?' and I was like, It's Elton John,' and anyway" —he looks adoringly at his wife—"this song is for you, honey." After a rendition of "High Flying Bird" that brings to mind a hardworking wedding band, Ray runs toward the stage and wraps her arms around him.

"I love you, honey!" she says, and plants a kiss on his lips.

Cusimano and Ray live in a downtown Manhattan apartment that is notably modest for a woman Forbes estimates earns $6 million a year. "Rachael would kill me if she knew I was showing you the place this messy," Cusimano says one afternoon while giving a tour of the four very narrow floors; the place has the feel of multiple studio apartments stacked on top of each other. He shows off what he calls "our Vegas room" (a nook with a card table and poker chips), the roof deck ("great for martinis in the summer"), and one of the bathrooms, which is Asian-themed, with glass tiles ("Rachael let me pick the design"). Finally, there is the kitchen—a startlingly minuscule one. "People are always shocked that our kitchen is so small," Cusimano says, tapping a mini-fridge that looks like it belongs in a dorm room. "They think, Rachael Ray is a big-time chef! How can she work like this? But you know what? This is all she needs. It's amazing what she can do in here. She cooks us dinner most nights. She likes nothing better than to be in her pajamas, cooking, with a glass of wine, at home with her dog. It helps her relax."

In the sun-splashed living room, Cusimano points out a framed poster for Pedro Almodovar's Talk to Her, signed by the Spanish director. "Almodóvar is her favorite director," he says, adding that his first "alone date" with Ray was going to see the movie. (The first date, he explains, was a group one that included Ray's mother and several close family friends: "It was straight out of The Godfather, basically.")

"Yeah, it's kind of funny," he says. "We met at a birthday party back in 2002. Literally the minute I met her a bachelor friend turned to me and said, Dude, you're fucking done.' I remember one of our first conversations was about food. She asked—maybe she was testing me—but she asked if I liked to cook. I said, Yeah, last night I got some tilapia, deglazed it with cilantro and Negra Modelo beer.' She probably thought I was gay, but that wasn't the case, obviously."

At the time, Ray was on the cusp of morph-ing into the antiMartha Stewart conqueress she is today. "She just had a show on the Food Network, which I'd never seen," says Cusimano, who was then providing legal counsel to a struggling independent-film company and playing on and off in the Cringe. But soon her show took off, the book deals started coming (they haven't stopped), Oprah called (Ray's frequent appearances on the show led to a partnership with Winfrey and King World Productions for her own syndicated talk show), and Cusimano found himself as entwined with Rachael Ray the brand as he was with the human; they got married in Italy in September 2005. Somewhere in there, Cusimano had an epiphany: "I was like, Do I want to lose money in independent film or make money in the Rachael Ray business?'"

Today, Cusimano plays a somewhat nebulous role in the Rachael Ray franchise. Unlike Martha and Oprah, Ray has yet to consolidate her businesses into one company; she is contracted talent—with CBS and the Food Network for the television shows, with Reader's Digest for the magazine, with knife and cookware manufacturers for the products. Cusimano, who works from home, doesn't collect a salary; he is co-owner of their nascent production company, Watch Entertainment, which he hopes to build into something like Oprah's Harpo Productions, though at the moment they have only one full-time employee.

One of the things he likes about the work is that it gives him ample time with his band. Since 2004, the Cringe have released two albums, neither of which sold particularly well, despite an appearance on Ray's talk show. ("Different demographics, I think," Cusimano says.) The group's latest effort, Tipping Point, has received from online music magazines reviews ranging from the vicious ("Oh, baby, this is one hot smoking turd of an album") to the slightly more kind ("Everything on this album you've heard before from someone else—and most likely you've heard it done better"). But like the gossip, this does not have any discernible effect on Cusimano's demeanor. He's an optimist. A guy having a good time. But don't get him wrong: He takes his day job seriously.

"Oh, I'm intimately involved with every aspect of the company," he says one day, standing inside a massive white-walled loft where his wife is being photographed for the packaging and ad campaign for a new Rachael Ray product. "It sounds clichéd, but every day is kind of different. I mean, maybe I'm at a photo shoot like this, making sure everything goes smoothly. Or maybe I'm looking over contracts. Or merchandising deals. I'm really the one who does all of that. I work real hard. If people want to be in the Rachael Ray business, they have to talk to me—"

"Honey!" his wife screams suddenly. "Honey, I need you!"

Today's shoot is for a product that, for the moment, remains top secret. Suffice it to say that the couple's pit bull, Isaboo, is involved. Cusimano is on hand because he has a special bond with the animal, whom he drops off every morning at Biscuits & Bath, a "doggy spa and gym."

"Can you get her to stay still?" Ray asks.

Cusimano sighs. "Excuse me for a sec," he says, heading over to his wife.

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