Everyone's been making a big deal about how cutting edge Thom Browne's collection is, but to me it's a more exaggerated version of what the Italians have been doing for years. Compared to this look, a Thom jacket is slightly shorter, slightly tighter, and the pants are slightly shorter—but only slightly. I think the common denominator is that both the Italians and Thom have both pulled so heavily from Brooks Brothers of the fifties. So much so that many Italians—like the guy at Brunello as well as Browne himself—never button their Brooks-inspired button-down shirts.