February 8, 2005

If the enthusiastic turnout at his show was any indication, Alexandre Plokhov seemingly has le tout New York willing him on. It’s not hard to see why. Even though the collection he showed comprised a briskly edited 23 looks, Plokhov already has a clear fashion signature. Citing his inspirations as the WWI ace Baron von Richthofen and the polar explorer Ernest Shackleton, Plokhov claimed backstage that he was drawn to “beautiful losers,” adventurers who tried their utmost but didn’t quite attain their goal. It’s a rare man who doesn’t relate to that. So there was poignancy as well as strength in the clothes Plokhov showed.

Opening with a cloak in Harris tweed, he paraded out military-influenced items such as hussar jackets in dyed cotton canvas or distressed leather, and a peacoat, again in cotton twill or leather. Alongside came the kind of sturdy clothes a polar explorer might have been inclined towards a century ago: a parka trimmed in raccoon, and a pair of pleated trousers in a Harris tweed substantial enough to keep arctic winds at bay. The marcelled hair of the models was a romantically inclined retro touch, but Plokhov’s version of formal wear—a black fleece hoodie with tuxedo trousers in sheared corduroy, a black leather topcoat with wool lapel—effortlessly whipped the past into the future. And the dressy jackets over Hedi-slim jeans with rolled cuffs capped his inspired take on this season’s dialogue between sporty and tailored.

— Tim Blanks