January 17, 2006

Ennio Capasa's earliest inspirations, even before he fell in love with punk, were poetic decadents like Byron, Shelley, Rimbaud, and Baudelaire. For his latest collection, he imagined introducing them to new technology. What would Lord Byron have put on his iPod? Capasa couldn't answer that question, but he singled out a moleskin coat (with pocket chain, beaver collar, and frayed edges) as something the poet might sport were he around to raise hell in the 21st century.

Capasa offered a random shuffle through a few centuries of rebel poses, from the silk-scarfed dandy to the biker, the Teddy boy, and the glam rocker. There was even a whiff of a Clockwork Orange future. The signature of the collection was a faded glamour, as in a top-stitched tailcoat, an old gold jacket cropped short like a waiter's, or a paillette-covered blouson worn over an almost-sheer cashmere undershirt. A black velvet jacket and trousers, jean-detailed and fitted like a second skin, were paired with a homburg and a white silk scarf knotted into a high cravat at the throat (a look that would probably make sense to both Beau Brummel in the 18th century and Alex the droog in the 21st).

Such edgy dressiness, also evident in a sheer black evening shirt with gold pleated front, or a black drape jacket with beaded lapel, had more impact (and was definitely more seductive) than the military references Capasa is equally drawn to.

— Tim Blanks