January 29, 2006

The huge inflatable rabbit and elephant that took up catwalk space echoed Jeff Koons' cartoonish Pop Art. But, aside from the fast-food jewelry (hamburger and hot dog pendants, anyone?), it wasn't entirely clear what that had to do with Kim Jones' latest collection. In fact, the designer seemed to be moving his signature activewear way upmarket.

Jones has fallen for an A-line silhouette. It looked cool as a cape-backed jacket paired with tailored sweatpants. The smartest pieces, though, were the fruit of a collaboration with London tailor Timothy Everest, which produced items as striking as the broad-shouldered coat that opened the show and a three-piece pinstripe suit (with the jacket a blouson).

The designer introduced a new graphic quality to his knitwear with Navajo motifs and trompe effects (like a tie knitted into a white sweater). But his diehard fans will more likely be drawn to a shirt (labeled as "punk style") with a bondage-strapped back. They'll also love the show's closer, a goosedown-padded shirt-and-sweatpant combo that made its wearer look like a teenage Michelin Man.

— Tim Blanks