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July 1, 2005

Say this for Roberto Cavalli's latest show—it was concise— a mere 22 outfits, displayed at Cavalli's sprawling café complex, which sits regally amid Milanese parkland. Not that the evening lacked flamboyance, thanks in large part to the presence of six Playboy Bunnies, flown in from Hef's hutch in Los Angeles to mark the announcement that their sexy cottontail outfits are about to be overhauled (for the first time in 45 years, no less) by…guess who?

In the spirit of the occasion, Cavalli declared that the playboy was his client of the future. "My clothes are for a guy who likes to show off, who loves the night, loves women," he cried, as Bunnies flocked to his side. In terms of this presentation, that meant a nouveau-Vegas mood. A black-and-white-checked jacket, velvet-detailed and embroidered with flowers, looked like updated Rat Pack. A pale lilac shirt with a pleated front was headed straight for the craps table.

The core of the collection seemed to be skins and denim. A snakeskin jacket with flapped pockets was the raciest top. Saddle-stitched jackets came in green-or-purple leather or blue suede. A dark-green motocross jacket, again embroidered with flowers, was sported over distressed low-slung jeans and a lilac T. "My man is romantic," Cavalli mused. "If he invites a woman to dinner, he should send 50 red roses." Apparently, he should also wear the same profusion of flora on his person.

— Tim Blanks