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September 9, 2008

Marc's signature collection is now so head-spinningly sophisticated that his second line offers him a better chance than ever before—why, it's practically an imperative—to indulge his inner kidult. How telling that he seemed to flash back to that legendary, notorious Perry Ellis grunge moment, except this time he could offer a Boy's Own version. Everything had the feel of vintage clothing thrown in a machine and washed clean of all past associations, and the washing included squashy trilbies (bearing in mind that trilbies are the headgear of choice for the great unwashed Pete Doherty and Mr. Amy Winehouse, there might be a sly dig in there somewhere).

Marc always gives credit to his design team, and this season they excelled themselves with a collection that glamorized grungy basics—crumpled plaid shorts came in silk, for instance; another pair in mattress ticking had a paper-bag waist. Paisley provided the print for sneakers, cummerbunds, or a hoodie paired with tweed-fleck pants. A faded olive-drab linen trench worn over long johns smacked of thrift shopping in Seattle, but the ribbon-tied black perforated oxfords that Marc might choose to complete the outfit were the quintessential finishing touch for a collection that, in some aftermath-y way, offered more than met the eye.

— Tim Blanks