Not Old Fish—Fish the Old Way

Buffet de la Gare in New York's Westchester County is small, old, funny looking, and a little forgotten. It has a wooden floor, globe lights, a tin ceiling, and—if you can imagine this—tin walls.

A friend who joined me for dinner said he felt like we were stranded in a Paris suburb, which was a great description, except I'd like to know the Paris suburb that is known for tin walls. We went there because I'm always on the lookout for places that do classic French food, which is an all-but-forgotten dining option. Classic French food prepared with care is difficult to find even in France, and I wasn't expecting much from Buffet de la Gare. Westchester County has few restaurants that do any food carefully.

Our food was oversauced, but classic French food often is, so no complaints. And if I can't complain about that, I can't complain about anything. The restaurant does nice work.

I ordered the striped bass. A big thrill for me was reading on the menu that the fish would be flamed in Pernod. I have to say my excitement abated when the flaming took place in the kitchen, not in the dining room. A major concept behind such a dish, of course, is that diners be entertained, not the kitchen help.

Still, the food was wonderful, and my fish was pristinely fresh. It was prepared in the French style, which means cooked to softness without being dry or overdone, and the sauce was sumptuous, as classic sauces are supposed to be.

I realize that few people on earth, least of all the French, appreciate this sort of eating anymore, but I continue to insist that when it is done well, with excellent ingredients, no cuisine is more breathtaking.