Yes, I'll Have Fries with That

Last week The New York Times printed a business section column with the headline, "I'll Have Fries and a Glass of Your Best Champagne." It was the story of a hungry wine expert stuck in a hotel with nothing but a room service menu and a ravenous appetite. She said what she accidently discovered was "the oddest pairing that's ever worked for me."

She ordered French fries and a glass of Champagne. She was astounded by what she called a "perfect pairing."

Champagne is absolutely the easiest wine to pair with food, so I'm flabbergasted by how often people decide a near-miracle has occurred whenever this takes place. They think Champagne is difficult, almost certainly because it has tons of acidity and millions of bubbles.

Here's what you do: Think of a glass of Champagne as a glass of beer. Works every time.

Of course, most people think of Champagne as ethereal and lovely, a romantic drink. Well, it might be that emotionally, but it isn't that technically. Champagne is one tough customer, able to stand up to salt, grease, and fat. The reason it is so often paired with caviar is that it washes your mouth clean of the salty, fishy aftertaste of sturgeon eggs.

The other day I drank Krug Rosé with smoked salmon. It worked fine. What remained of the bottle was even better the next day, when I paired it with hot dogs and beans.