Kitchen Inconsequential
Brasserie Les Halles, like its Chef-at-Large, Anthony Bourdain, has a certain ill-mannered charm. The restaurant reminds me of the grubby spots I used to visit in Paris, the ones that titillated me because they appeared to be in violation of health codes.
Bourdain, yet another chef who hates the drudgery of preparing food, recently went back to the restaurant to play line cook. You might have seen him last night on No Reservations, the Travel Channel show where he slouches, smirks, drinks, smokes, swears, pontificates, and eats bugs (possibly the attributes of a modern Renaissance man). Although he claimed on the program that "the cooking life has been a long love affair," he also pointed out that it had been eight years since he had worked in a kitchen.
When I phoned the restaurant to ask his role there, I was told he acts as a "consultant," although it's hard to know what a place that specializes in the hoariest of French dishes would need from an American who wasn't much of a chef back in the days when he worked at being one. I visited Les Halles on Park Avenue this past weekend and found the butter and the fries quite good. Perhaps churning and frying are Bourdain's culinary specialties these days.
I had planned to go twice, but once was enough. I entered and was led to a miniscule table covered in white paper. It was in front of a banquette that appeared to have been slashed, probably by an understandably dissatisfied customer. The lighting is so dim and the furnishings so battered that it was difficult to accurately assess the damage.
Next to the table was a marginally better one, and my guest and I asked to be seated there. The surly hostess, who had heretofore said nothing, snarled "no," and when I pressed for an explanation, she said it had been reserved. I was suspicious, since it's hard to imagine anyone going to the trouble to reserve a specific table at a restaurant where none are desirable. It was a falsehood easily exposed. When we asked the people finally seated there if they had indeed reserved it, they told us that they had just wandered in, having no idea where they might be placed.
We ordered wine and our waiter, much friendlier than the hostess, brought the incorrect vintage. We substituted another, which arrived warm to the touch, and he promised us an ice bucket that never materialized. We gamely pressed on, ordering three appetizers, two main courses, and three desserts.
The first, a flavorless and fatty house terrine, tasted like truck-stop cuisine, but in retrospect we regretted discarding it, because it was markedly superior to a crab cake that was mostly breading and spongy escargots acrid from undercooked garlic. Steak au poivre, although properly cooked, was another variation on the theme of acridity.
The duck confit looked reasonably attractive. The waiter assured us it was made on the premises, but he was the same fellow who had misled us about the wine bucket (not to be confused with the hostess who had lied about the table). Regardless, the duck leg wasn't any tastier than those that come from a can. The so-called "truffled potatoes" accompanying it were greasy diced spuds.
Desserts were an improvement, which I attribute to Bourdain not being the Pastry Chef-at-Large. Profiteroles came with good ice cream and even better chocolate sauce, but the choux pastry was inedible—cold, soggy, and undercooked. The crème brûlée would have been fine had it been freshly made, while the crêpes suzette, prepared tableside, were at least done earnestly. The gentleman pressed into service had good intentions, but no idea how to make this classic French dessert. He worked hard, used too much of everything, and presented us with mushy crêpes drowned miserably in an alcoholic, orange-flavored bath.
Last night's episode of No Reservations might inadvertently have provided an explanation of why the food at Les Halles is so dreadful. The number of tables has almost doubled since Bourdain worked there, and the kitchen is feeding more than 600 people a day.
What's more appalling than the food or even the absurd title of Chef-at-Large is that the smirking Bourdain has somehow become the de facto public face of the restaurant industry. It's as if Steven Seagal had been named president of the Screen Actors Guild.
411 Park Avenue South; 212-679-4111; www.leshalles.net










Disappointing, Alan. I last ate at Les Halles about a year and a half ago. The food was good (not great) but the service was at least friendly. This isn't Tony's fault though. Like he said, he hasn't worked there in 8 years. He seemed flustered by the number of tables as well as the changes on the menu. Give the guy a break, it's not his fault. I know they called him a consultant - but think about it, if you owned a restaurant and could associate yourself with a celebrity, wouldn't you do it too? Blame management.
McTickle
Mar 12, 2008 12:59:43 PM
Wow, you really are the pettiest of the bunch. Seems like the award for DOUCHEBAG was rightly deserved.
scaramanga
Mar 12, 2008 1:58:33 PM
yup, still a douchebag. confirmed..
whyohwhy
Mar 12, 2008 2:13:23 PM
Wow! You sir are such a tremendous, vindictive douchebag that you should win an award to that effect.
...oh... too late.
KurtEvans
Mar 12, 2008 2:44:26 PM
what's wrong with your eyebrows?
adhominem
Mar 12, 2008 3:29:48 PM
I took my N.Y.C. residing kid brother and
my wife to Les Halles about 3 1/2 years ago.
The steak frites were just so-so. My wife's
duck breast (a special) could never have been attached to a duck's body. Service was
almost non extistent. I live in So Cal so I don't have to sweat going back to that dump.
Alan is right on as usual! I'm also familiar with Paris greasy spoons and the Park Ave Les Halles would fit right in the collection of "dangerous Paris eateries".
hermanb
Mar 12, 2008 4:03:24 PM
I didn't know Chuck Rangel had a blog...
OSURoss
Mar 12, 2008 4:06:20 PM
Gotta disagree whole-heartedly. Wife and I went just 3 weeks ago. Service was friendly without being overbearing. Creme Brulee was delightful (no hint of being in the walk-in for days) and the Boudin Noir was amazing.
And yes, I know Bourdain is not in the kitchen. I don't expect him to have a grand influence on Les Halles anymore. Whoever cooked for us that night deserves much kudos.
Enjoy your Golden Clog.
Gregorio
Mar 12, 2008 5:42:05 PM
Listen,
On Bourdain ...
This dude is every cook who worked for the big name chefs & love food but got gobbled up by the businesses' hero. (There is a lot !)
He would still be hacking it out in some crap hole if he didn't write a book and get famous.
Plus he is the first dude to admit that he went for the cash and didn't give a fU** .
The thing to love about him is that he shoots straight from the hip.
He is a pretty likable mo-fo..... unlike Richman who is an uberdouche!
duece
Mar 12, 2008 11:44:11 PM
The thing that disgusts me most about this post is the sheer lack of professionalism and ethics. I have no problem with someone giving a little back when they’ve been attacked; but Richman didn’t do it in the open. He hid his attack on Bourdain in what was supposed to be a restaurant review. Let’s be honest, there is absolutely no question that this was a personal attack on Bourdain. The whole post referred to him personally and little to do with Les Halles. Why not do the honest thing and trash Bourdain in the open? Why try to hide it?
This person is supposed to write reviews of restaurants that consumers can trust, at least to some degree. How can anyone trust any review that he has written or will write, after knowing that his reviews are directly related to personal feelings he has towards ownership? Will Le Bernardin get a bad review now because Ripert was on No Reservations? What about Per Se because Ruhlman wrote books for Keller? His poor attempt at subtly is not only unethical, but leaves him and GQ open to libel lawsuits.
I’m not saying the guy is Jayson Blair, but this certainly isn’t good journalism. GQ should retract the post in my opinion.
BrandonPHX
Mar 13, 2008 12:32:12 AM
BrandonPHX nailed it, much along what I was mentally composing, but verbalized so much better.
Tony Bourdain still epitomizes the heart and soul of the of the back of the house, even if he doesn't work at that particular restaurant anymore, and has no control over the day to day runnings of Les Halles. His attempt to go back where he once worked touches a nerve in all of us who are older and wondering if we can still go back and make it work. He also doesn't claim to be of the caliber of a Michelin chef. Don't overlook these distinctions in your review of the present incarnation of the establishment.
coso
Mar 13, 2008 1:47:22 AM
Alan is a hack.
Bourdain hasn't been involved in Les Halles in almost a decade. This is a hit job. GQ should fire this guy!
alanisahack
Mar 13, 2008 11:03:04 AM
douchie of all douchebags -- you should be canned
the place is a good hearty bistro with no pretensions . . . the City needs more of these . . . forget Bourdain. I eat here (the downtown Les Halles) about 1x a month and never, ever am disappointed. They stuck it out through the nightmare that downtown has become since 9-11, support the neighborhood and even if the food sucked for that they deserve kudos.
downtowner
Mar 13, 2008 1:00:11 PM
Amen, Brandon - this is unethical journalism from an award-winning douchebag.
Have fun making lemon bundt cake with Mr. Mufflesworth, Richman. Douche.
corbinski
Mar 13, 2008 5:19:16 PM
Two things: The timing of this post is highly questionable, given the recent DOUCHE award.
And Alan's right: the food at Les Halle sucks. Whatever they pay Bourdain is worth it because it keeps bringing the suckers in. I went a year ago and had the worst dining experience of my seven years in New York.
harryst
Mar 13, 2008 6:54:26 PM
how about all you detractors eating there before you trash the author.
jgendel
Mar 13, 2008 10:29:42 PM
i dunno... i love bourdain and i've wanted to go to the restaurant for some time now. no reservations is a favorite show of mine and i even watched his kitchen confidential sitcom for its short run years ago.
i will try les halles anyway but maybe not the park avenue location. the other 1 might be better.
either way, alan's post made me curious. whether the food really did suck is irrelevant to him making attacks on tony, so we all must try the food ourselves...
quickV
Mar 14, 2008 2:42:50 AM
Bourdain is the hack and Alan (despite his apparent grumpiness) is a mensch. Props to anyone who can catch lightning in a bottle with as minimal a talent as "chef" Bourdain has (see also: Spears, Britney, and Bush, George W.), but calling Richman's accurate description of the dreadful food at Les Halles a personal attack or hatchet job on precious little Anthony is ridiculous. Sometimes a spade must simply be called a spade, or the emperor must be shown to be wearing no clothes or some other (truthful) cliche must be brought to the attention of the star-f*cking public, so they'll wake up and smell the coffee. John Curtas Las Vegas, Nevada
jcurtas
Mar 14, 2008 12:49:47 PM
If it weren't for those James Beard Awards for writing, I'd say that you were a pompous idiot. Tony has spent 28 years in the Industry and has been out of the kitchen for eight years. How on earth do you think someone like Eric Ripert would volunteer for a shift on the line? There must be a level of respect between the two of them.
I worked in the Industry for fifteen years and am drawn to Tony's intelligence, sense of adventure and his sarcastic personality. Unlike you, he seems to experience the culinary world with an appreciation for those who prepared his meal. You may have had a less than stellar experience at La Halles but don't blame Tony for it.
tcphoto
Mar 14, 2008 3:00:34 PM
Anthony Bourdain is the biggest douche actually.. The guy is a shitty cook and a fucking drug addict.. Yes Kitchen Confidential was a good book but, non of his other books are good..
He is uncomfortable in front of the camera and thinks he is a lot cooler then he is.
Honestly, its upsetting that he represents the culinary world.. He is a no nothing hack that is one step up from Rachel Ray.. Though Rachel Ray has actually cooked more then he has..
The asshole worked in a steakhouse for christ sake and it sucks.. Allan Richman is right to have slammed this place..
Bourdain is a whore.. Did anyone remember him at Rocco's restaurant praising the food? He shows up wherever this is a free meal.. He is the biggest sell out of them all because he claims to not be a sell out..
Fuck Bourdain..
TonySux11
Mar 17, 2008 10:01:16 AM
Pretty lame Richman. I'm a food critic. It's my job to review the food, the atmosphere and the over all experience. This is a direct attack on Bourdain and because you couldn't find anything else to bitch about, you made his former haunt the victim.
It's obvious you have NEVER worked in a kitchen. Bourdain exemplifies the real line cook. That is why he is so popular. He says what he wants, has a pretty defined palette and doesn't care who he offends. He's never claimed to be a great chef and often makes fun of how he became a household name.
He too, is a critic. He judged you and it looks like he judged you accurately.
To sum things up: Richman got cranky because two food guys called him out on being a douchebag. Now lil Richman is ANGEEEE and wants to get even. Hmm. I wonder if all of the chefs over the years youve publicly insulted want to get even with you. Oh, thats right. Looks like they did.
somechickwhocooks
Apr 7, 2008 2:52:32 PM
Tonysux- before you make some pretty petty claims, why don't you get the facts straight. Anthony to this day acknowledges that Rocco when he cooked at Union Pacific was a great chef- his criticism is not on his food, but based on the fact that rocco seemed to have traded off his inspiring culinary career for a celebrity one (something anthony admittedly did too, but remember, anythony was never considered the very talented young chef Rocco was)
The statement Rachael ray(someone i don't like, but i definitely don't have anything against her at all)cooked more than he has is just silly.
ultimately the food may not be to someone's liking- that's completely valid, but i just wonder if we're trying to falsely compare the restaurants food to the standards that a celebrity food enthusiast should have( i don't think anthony "sells" the restaurant as harryst suggests, nor do i believe anthony has any current connections to the restaurant, APART from the fact that he used to be a chef there).
and finally...before anybody continues to falsely criticize anthony, he doesn't call himself a chef, cause he no longer is one.(he no longer runs a kitchen) So stop making suggestions as if Anthony Bourdain thinks he's some super-chef. There's a reason his "no reservations" introduction, says he's an eater and a traveler-he never once mentions hcedf
Again the restaurants food may not be hte best...(or maybe not be the best compard to what one may misguidedly expect from a man who is famous because he used to be a chef...) but undoubtedly the review was written out of spite.
acomment
Apr 14, 2008 4:47:35 AM
This person is supposed to write reviews of restaurants that consumers can trust, at least to some degree. How can anyone trust any review that he has written or will write, after knowing that his reviews are directly related to personal feelings he has towards ownership? Will Le Bernardin get a bad review now because Ripert was on No Reservations? What about Per Se because Ruhlman wrote books for Keller? His poor attempt at subtly is not only unethical, but leaves him and GQ open to libel lawsuits.I’m not saying the guy is Jayson Blair, but this certainly isn’t good journalism. GQ should retract the post in my opinion.
-you're exactly right, Brandon PHX...
though i do believe Richman has more integrity than to call our PER SE...(i may be wrong). It wouldn't be an unreasonable that we should start to consider the integrity of Richman's reviews, when this review seems so hard pressed to attack a man who has been critical of Richman-
acomment
Apr 14, 2008 4:57:22 AM
Alan Richman, in addition to being petty, vindictive and adolescent, is a fraud. This is a man who couldn't find a decent place to eat in the entire city of Naples. This is a man who viciously blasted New Orleans, not so much for its food, as for the faults he claims to have found in its cultural history, less than a year after it was struck the worst hurricane country in almost a century. His ignorance and lack of integrity were displayed when he wrote that he didn't know, and essentially didn't care to know, what a New Orleans Creole was, after conversing with Leah Chase, one of the icons of New Orleans's two-centuries old Creole culture.
What an ass.
Flageolet
Apr 16, 2008 3:12:39 PM