So to continue my account of last week's adventures, I was back in Dublin after an absence of many years, and although I knew that things would be different I was still surprised to observe first-hand just how much different. I have actually visited Ireland several times in recent years, but I'd landed in Shannon and headed west, playing golf and checking out the cuisine upgrades. I remembered Dublin as poor but congenial, and it conjured up memories of diesel fumes and begging children and pub behavior that sometimes seemed to border on aggression. Now I have replaced the smelly buses and needy kids with memories of chic Italian restaurants, the woodwork in Bono's Clarence Hotel, and the dazzling houses overlooking the sea at Dalkey. You still see guys walking around in NASCAR jackets who look like they might like to punch you after a few Budweisers (yes, Bud's big there), but generally this is a place where civilization is on the rise.

A few signs: The beer technicians are always on call, making sure that the world's best Guinness is available under ideal conditions.

Great architecture hasn't been torn down yet to make way for Frank Gehry monstrosities.

Much funky stuff remains.

Here are McDermott and McGough at a chic, undisclosed location in Dalkey, overlooking the Bay of Dublin. Sorrento has nothing on the view here.