Q: I rented The Motorcycle Diaries, and I thought Gael García Bernal looked really cool in his khakis, which is more than I can say about all the dorky guys walking around Capitol Hill in Washington, D.C., where I live. Is there any brand of khakis you like better than others?

A: Khakis got their start as military kit among British colonial units stationed in sandy wastes, where their color worked as camouflage. Soon they became standard issue in any respectable military force with designs on global conquest. After World War II, their good looks brought them, as surplus, to widespread civilian use and manufacture. Today there are hundreds, if not thousands, of varieties of khakis, from pajama-like drawstring jobs to your aforementioned Capitoline pleated, permanent-press “dorkers.” I have had two pairs I considered perfect, and I suspect they were not dissimilar to the classic style worn by the U.S. Navy personnel during the Second World War (see In Harm’s Way). That means a fairly high rise, flat front, and full straight leg. Mine were made by Paul Smith in the early ’90s. I wore them to shreds and went back looking for more, only to find Mr. Smith had changed the design. “But they were perfect!” I gasped. And with that, I learned a crucial fashion lesson—find something you like and stock up. A few years later, I found another perfect model, part of Calvin Klein’s expensive line. They were as perfect as Paul Smith’s and had a button fly. Naturally, these too were worn to rags, and the design never reappeared. This led me to the extreme measure of having two pairs run up to my specs on Savile Row by Steed. I’m still wearing them. My advice is, look everywhere, and if you locate a pair you like, buy a lifetime supply. Khakis can be worn with brown or black shoes, and these eminently casual trou can be dressed up with a sport coat or a blazer.

April 2005

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