Q: In episode 32 of the GQ podcasts, “How to Buy a Suit,” it was mentioned that salesmen will hardly ever give you an honest answer about the way a suit is put together. How can I tell on my own if a suit is fused or hand-basted? And does it really matter?

A: I don’t believe that suit jackets should be glued together, which is basically what a fused suit is: layers of fabric glued together. So yes, it does matter. Because of interaction between glue and dry-cleaning solvents, a fused jacket is eventually going to bubble like asphalt in the Tropics. Why would a fused suit be expensive? Because designers need to buy houses on Lake Como. A hand-basted suit means the outer fabric and the lining are handstitched to a canvas shell, giving you more softness and freedom of movement than a fused jacket would. If a salesman lies to you, you are shopping in the wrong store. Telling you that your suit is hand-basted when it’s fused is like a car salesman telling you a straight six is a V-12. If you’re in doubt, ask the guy in the alterations department. He’s a tailor. He, at least, should have some integrity.

January 2006

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