Although he made his name with Mexican cuisine in restaurants from New York to Dubai, Chef Ricardo Sandoval is only now opening his first outpost back home. Debuting this week (three years after its New York predecessor), Pampano Mexico City offers new confections like sliced salmon over pickled vegetables with chive oil and papalo (a Mexican herb), miso- and chipotle-glazed salmon with grilled asparagus, and tostones de costilla, a dish with short ribs, shredded beef, and plantains. Despite his track record, Pampano feels queasy about facing his "harshest critics yetthe Mexican people." Something tells us he'll be fine, though his worries are far from over: In December, the chef takes over his family's Acapulco eatery, Madieras, where he got his start three decades ago.
Pampano, Moliere 42, Colonia Polanco, Mexico City, 011-52-55-52812-010, modernmexican.com
DAVID KAUFMAN
Photo: Courtesy of Pampano