At Pitti Uomo: Van Beirendonck's skeletons, out of the closet and onto the runway

When it was announced that Belgian avant-gardist Walter Van Beirendonck would be showing at the ultratraditional Pitti Uomo, more than a few eyebrows were raised. Van Beirendonck, one of the so-called "Antwerp Six" (Dries Van Noten, Dirk Bikkembergs, and Ann Demeulemeester also among them), tends toward the iconoclastic, and his clothes aim to shock and amuse. Well, consider his mission accomplishedeven if Explicit was his most restrained collection to date. ("Restrained" being a relative termthe designer's previous collection was entitled Sexclown.) Models wore full-body leotards, some emblazoned with skeletons, some with fleshy muscles and, ahem, appendages. Others came down the runway in T-shirts with cartoonish prints and superhero-inspired tops. But all sported beards meant to look like twigs and leaves (garden-gone-to-seed versions of Van Beirendonck's own). That may have been the provocateur's most wearable look: faux facial hair fit for a wood nymph. Unfortunately for green-minded customers, we don't suppose they'll be for sale.








