That African and Middle Eastern influences were in the air (so to speak) was hardly surprising—after all, the line's named for a 12th-century Persian allegorical poem. (Some tees were even emblazoned, varsity-style, with the names of its characters.) The crackling soundtrack included "Walk Like an Egyptian" and Bogie intoning about Casablanca, but the actual Africana was limited to gauzy layering and scarves, while brilliant yellows in solids and ombré gradients livened up the whole. Best, though, were the surprisingly subtle cargo pants that buttoned at the cuff—a clever new way to expose the ubiquitous ankle. One-upping Thom? Call it an avian coup.

Click here for a few highlights >