
The story is as American as the clothes themselves: Immigrant boy (a shirtmaker) meets girl (a button specialist) and falls in love. Together, Bernard Gant and his wife begin making preppy button-downs, which they sell to high-end clients like Brooks Brothers and J. Press before breaking out on their own in 1949. Two decades later, Gant shirts (with their signature stitched "G") are a WASP staple, and the family sells the company.
Unfortunately, the brand that bears their name declines in quality for, oh, the next few decades. But then in 2001, Swedish ownership takes over and injects a dash of flair (and cash); a few years later, by happy coincidence, classic American prep comes back into style. Drawing inspiration from both its legendary archives and a successful collaboration with retailer Jeffrey Kalinsky (whose authentically detailed oxford shirt is a huge hit), the label begins reworking its clothes, giving them a better fit and an updated (but not too updated) design. A mere 40 years after its peak, Gant is suddenly on the backs of fashionable editorsand in the pages of their magazines.
The renaissance comes full circle with Gant's new Limited Edition Collection, a 30-piece line hitting stores this month. It distills the brand's heritage from the fifties and sixties heyday into a look that should appeal to contemporary Mad Menthink shirts with button-down micro-collars and suits with a subtle sheen and tailored feel. The polos and knitwear have details like a rugby stripe on one sleeve or piping at the collar, but my favorite is a floral-print swim trunk that evokes something a little unexpected: the South Pacific. There might not be second acts in American lives, but it's good to know there are in American menswear.
JOSH PESKOWITZ
Photo: Courtesy of Gant