
When jewelry designer Evan Yurman told us about his recent high-speed supercar sojourn through the South for our road trips feature, he tipped us off to another sort of road-less-traveled destination that, frankly, we just didn't have the space for at the time. (There was also a certain, um, overblown media scare going 'round at the time about a porcine-related influenza outbreak that made a trip to the Yucatán seem foolhardy, if not death-defying.) Those problems now assuaged, we think it's high time to share what Yurman had to say. (And send a postcard, won't you?)
"My fiancée and I went to Tulum, which we ended up hating—so we just hit the road and started driving our rental car with the windows down to a place called Chichin Itza. It was about a hundred degrees, and there were all these cenotes along the way—natural waterholes, sometimes with underwater caves, that you can go swimming in. Some cost a quarter, some a dollar; some are free. We rolled the windows down and turned the air-conditioning off and just pulled over at every cenote we saw—probably eight or ten—and went swimming.
"When we got to Chichin Itza, we saw the ruins, and a guide there had this really unique gold ring on. I asked him where he got it, and he told me about this town called Merida. Very few people know about it. We got there and were trying to figure out where to stay; the information place directed us to a Hyatt, which was a total dump with about 200 rooms—so I thought I'd try to find the place with the fewest rooms. We ended up finding this place with seven. It was in the worst part of town, but once you got inside the doors it was like an eighteenth-century palazzo—just unbelievably beautiful. It was like staying at a private mansion in Morocco: five-star service, Four Seasons standards. I called in sick to work for four days.
"The roots of Merida date from the sixteenth century; later it became, briefly, the wealthiest city in the Americas because it supplied all the hemp and rope for Spain's huge fleet of ships. And then it all just died—so there's all these mansions in town which are mostly dormant; it's like a ghost town, with 20 or 30 mansions lining some streets, all of them unoccupied. You can buy them for $100,000 or so.
"The butler at the hotel was a ninth-generation Merida guy—his family owned about a third of the city, but he was interested in opening hotels—and he fed us these drinks made with this huge green leaf minced up with citrus and sugar in a blender, and it was like a natural amphetamine. Everything got very vivid—colors got brighter, your hearing got more on-point—and we'd go out and visit ruins and cenotes just tripping. He wouldn't tell me what the drink was—no locals would, either—but it was a nice body high that got you very toasty for your day but was still very manageable; there were no withdrawals, and you weren't drinking them every 20 minutes.
"We drove eight or nine hours to get to Merida from Tulum, because we took the local roads, but you could take the superhighway and do it in about two hours from Tulum or three or four hours from Cancun. It's the perfect three-day weekend. I highly recommend it." —Evan Yurman
Hotel Villa Merida, Calle 59 #615A x 80 y 82, Colonia Centro, Merida, Yucatán, Mexico; rates start at $235 per suite; (888) 737-2124; thevillasgroup.com
COREY SEYMOUR
Photo: thevillasgroup.com