Plokhov Uncloaked

A first look at the designer's collection for Uniqlo

May 2, 2007—When Alexandre Plokhov announced he was shuttering Cloak back in December, there was double cause for concern—not only was New York losing one of its more adventurous labels, but what was to become of the lower-price line the designer was set to do for Uniqlo? We're happy to report the latter went ahead according to plan, and turns out to have been well worth the wait. The capsule collection includes jeans, button-downs, and shorts, but our favorite items are Plokhov's cotton polos, which sport smartly truncated collars, button-down breast pockets, and epaulet-evoking detailing on the shoulders (apropos for a military man–turned-designer). While fans of Uniqlo's playful approach to color may be disappointed at the muted palette, the Russian-born designer says his blacks, grays, and whites pay homage to his adopted hometown. "I wanted it to be like a postcard from New York," he says, while also characterizing the line as "Cloak's cousin from Japan." The collaboration marks Plokhov's first foray into mass-produced fashion. (While Cloak had about five staffers, he notes Uniqlo has five "just to choose the buttons.") And happily it won't be his last experience with a deep-pocketed partner. Since March, he's been consulting on Versace menswear. "It's been surprisingly easy and invigorating and liberating at the same time," he says of the Spring 2008 collection, which is set to debut in Milan on June 23. Haven't gotten our seat assignments yet, but at least we know what we'll be wearing.