Deconstructing the Tux

Formalwear gets the “disrespect” it deserves

October 3, 2005—Whether you call it Tweak Chic, High-Low, or simply Stuff that Doesn’t Quite Go Together, jarring juxtapositions power one of fall’s hottest trends. With the just-opened “New Concept” section of its NYC men’s store, Bergdorf Goodman takes that mix-and-match aesthetic to evening attire. “It’s a kind of healthy disrespect for formalwear,” says Michael Bastian, men’s fashion director. “Guys are taking formal elements and busting them up, redefining how they’re worn.” To that end, the new second-floor shop specializes in individual pieces, with highlights like Etro velvet pants, dinner jackets from Cantarelli and Boglioli, and a denim tuxedo from Tourist. While the pairing of a black tux jacket with beat-up jeans may be a cliché of moody photo shoots by now, Bergdorf’s approach adds a whole new level of sophistication. For example, Bastian suggests matching a pair of grosgrain-embellished tuxedo pants with Chuck Taylors and a gray T-shirt. The look is all about being “totally unexpected,” he says, “like the male equivalent of wearing sequins during the day.”
Bergdorf Goodman, 754 Fifth Ave. (at 57th St.), NYC; bergdorfgoodman.com, (212) 753-7300