Alongside Vacheron and Patek, Audemars is one of "the big three," as U.S. watch dealer Al Armstrong puts it. "But they weren't presented properly to the American public until the 1990s, when they took charge of their own distribution." Once that happened, they became hugely influential, of course. Their Offshore kicked off the big-watch trend, and they're associated with some equally big stars—Shaq and Arnie are both fans. But for people with wrists smaller than their ankles, the Jules is the one to pick. "It's stealth wealth," says Armstrong, adding that the Audemars is "all made in-house, with an excellent movement that's meant to go six to eight years without servicing." Since most fine watches need a tune-up every three to five years, you could even say this model will save you money.

Price: Starts at $20,400 for white gold (shown)
Other available cases: Rose gold
Year introduced (original model/this edition): 2000/2007
Made in: Switzerland
Case size: 39 mm
Band material: crocodile
Movement: Automatic mechanical
Web site: audemarspiguet.com